Graveside Gorge

Ask anyone about Kakadu National Park and they’ll rattle off the usual suspects — Jim Jim Falls, Yellow Water Billabong, Ubirr Rock art. But Graveside Gorge? Crickets. It’s like the quiet mate in the corner, the one who doesn’t shout but has stories that stick with you longer.
This gorge is Kakadu’s stone cathedral, carved by ancient floodwaters and hidden beneath the park’s better-known landmarks. If you want to escape the crowds, get off the beaten track and experience raw, remote Aussie bush camping in a truly wild place, Graveside Gorge is for you.
It’s not easy to get to. In fact, it’s a mission. But when you finally arrive, that quiet, stark beauty makes the journey worth every rattle on the corrugations and dusty servo stop.

What You Need to Know

Graveside Gorge isn’t your average day hike or tourist track. It’s a deep sandstone canyon carved into the escarpment of southern Kakadu National Park, fringed by monsoon forest-filled gorge systems and peppered with plunge pools, waterfalls and Aboriginal art sites. The gorge gets its name from nearby Graveside Creek — though no graves are involved, just a stark reminder that this is remote country with little margin for error.

It’s part of the restricted access area known as Koolpin Gorge (Jarrangbarnmi), and the upper reaches — including Graveside — require serious bushwalking permits and respect for Traditional Owners.

This is Wurrkbarbar Country, and the cultural significance of the area is immense. You’re walking through sacred terrain, with Dreaming stories etched into the stone. That’s why you’ll need a permit, not just for logistics, but out of cultural respect.

Getting there

Okay, let’s not beat around the bush — Graveside Gorge isn’t a short hop from the Kakadu Highway. You’ll need:

A high-clearance 4WD (seriously, don’t try in the family hatchback)
A Koolpin Gorge permit (issued in limited numbers)
Overnight bushwalking permits for Graveside access
A strong knowledge of backcountry navigation
A healthy respect for crocodiles and remote conditions

To start, head for the Koolpin Gorge turnoff south of Gunlom (when open). This track alone can be rough as guts after the wet season. Then it’s a slog on foot — 10km to Koolpin, and another 4–6km of unmarked trail into Graveside Gorge, depending on your route.

You’ll pass landmarks like Boulder Creek Falls, Cascades Creek, and Barramundi Gorge — each a stunning gorge in its own right. Some hikers follow parts of the Jatbula Trail or connect routes via the Yurmikmik Falls Trail. Expect deep gorges, shady gorges and the occasional natural water slide if the water level’s right.

The trail’s not signposted and you’ll likely be bush-bashing through narrow gorge corridors, thick monsoon thickets and creek crossings. Leave the GPS-reliant attitude at home. You’ll need topo maps, marked tracks, compass skills and good judgment.

Why go all that way?

Because Graveside Gorge is the sort of magical place that makes you forget the rest of the world exists. Imagine this: you’re standing in a cathedral of stone with tiered rock pools running like veins down the gorge walls. Ferns sprout from cracks. Water tumbles into deep green pools. The silence is so profound it hums. No crowds. No signs. Just you, the rock and maybe a wallaby keeping an eye from above. And the water — oh, the water. In the dry season you’ll find lovely pools perfect for a cautious swim (always croc check first). Waterfalls cascade from towering heights and you’ll spot Aboriginal rock art in places untouched by time. This isn’t just sightseeing — it’s communion.

Bush camping at its finest

Graveside isn’t a serviced campground — not even close. You’re wild bush camping, old-school. Think challenging campground but an unforgettable camping experience. That means: No loos (dig a dunny well away from water) No taps (boil or treat creek drinking water) No bins (pack it all out, including your grog cans) No fires during much of the dry season (check restrictions) But in exchange, you get a flat ledge under the stars, the scent of paperbarks, and the gurgle of creek water as your lullaby. Just be croc smart. Stick to high ground for camp, keep away from undercut creek edges, and don’t leave scraps out. Salties have been known to venture well inland, especially in the early dry season when water flow is higher. If you’re heading out on Kakadu tours from Darwin, popular nearby campgrounds include Mardugal Billabong and the campground between sections at Koolpin Creek — but for Graveside, you’re in backcountry mode. Tent only, no vehicle access.

Seasonal tips

Best time to visit? Dry season, hands down.

June to August: Water is flowing, tracks are (usually) passable, and mozzies haven’t quite launched their full assault.
September to October: Hotter, drier, fewer bugs — but waterholes can shrink, and heat stroke becomes a real risk.

Avoid completely:

Wet season (Nov–April): Tracks are impassable, flash floods are deadly, and crocs are on the move. Permit conditions prohibit travel, and the permit officer won’t issue bushwalking access.

Plan well ahead — permit requests are capped and often booked months in advance. Self sufficiency is non negotiable: carry your own water, comms (sat phone or PLB), and backup food.

Quick Gear Checklist

If you’re heading to Graveside, don’t pack light — pack smart:

Topo map + compass (and know how to use them)
Satellite phone or PLB (non-negotiable)
Water purification gear
Spare fuel and tyre repair kit
Lightweight hiking stove and food for 2 extra days
First aid kit + snake bandage
Lightweight mosquito net + strong repellent
Permit printouts (Koolpin and Graveside access)
Kakadu Trip List for essentials

Cultural awareness and permissions

Graveside Gorge is situated in an area of great cultural significance to the Jawoyn and Bininj/Mungguy people. Rock art, sacred sites and Dreaming stories are in the very cliffs and waterholes you’ll pass.

Always:

Get the right permits — overnight bushwalking permits and restricted access Permit forms.
Check in with the permits officer — they’ll confirm your route, safety plans and entry approval.
Stay out of signed sacred areas — if a spot is marked off-limits, it’s for a reason.
Respect the land — walk softly, take nothing and leave no trace.

Graveside isn’t a “conquer it and brag” destination. It’s a place to walk humbly, listen closely and leave lighter than you came.